Gathering

Gathering is a sewing technique for shortening the length of a strip of fabric so that the longer piece can be attached to a shorter piece. It is commonly used in clothing to manage fullness. Gathering can be done by hand, by machine, automatically or with elastic and through channels. Gathering by hand and machine involves stitching across the edge of the fabric and pulling on the loose thread to draw up the fabric into mini folds. The stitch length determines the fullness.

• Hand gathering is done on one or more rows of running stitches, the more rows of stitches the deeper the gathers produced. When rows of stitching are parallel and identically spaced the gathers look like fine pleats.

• Machine gathering is faster than hand gathering and can be done using a straight stitch with the top tension loosened and the fabric gathered onto the bobbin thread. Alternatively, zigzag gathering will withstand the strain of long lengths or heavier fabric and is done by encasing the gathering cord under one or more rows of zigzag stitch. 

• Automatic gathering is performed while sewing rather than arranging the fabric afterwards. It requires the use of either a gathering foot or a more complicated ruffler. Both lock an extra piece of fabric into the stitches as sewing is done. 

• Elastic gathering can be done by straight stitching with elastic on the bobbin this gives a softer gather, a fuller gather can be achieved by zigzagging over cord elastic which is stretched during stitching.

• Channel gathering is performed either by stitching a casing through which a length of cord, ribbon, rod etc. is placed, or by crating loops, holes or slots through which the gathering element is woven.

Gathering: Thakoon Autumn/Winter 2010/11

Gathering: Victor and Rolf



Gathering: Louis Vuitton Autumn/Winter 2010/11;

Gathering: Maarten Van Der Horst, Central Saint Martins, Ready-To-Wear, Fall 2011;